Digital photography light is exactly the same as light for film cameras. It is used to lighten the shadow side of the face, so that detail is visible. Once you have a thorough understanding of illumination, how it works and how to manipulate it - THEN - is the time to buy expensive studio strobes. It too can be a mirror, reflector or light. It is used to light the backdrop or turned around and used to light the back of the subject (rim light) or their hair (hair light). AND it can be ANY type of illumination! Or not even a light at all! Once you’ve mastered one source of illumination, you’re set! They all work the same. It’s a good thing - that’s what makes your subject appear 3D rather than flat and lifeless.
The third light is the separation light and is put behind the subject. You will take your meter reading from this light and adjust all your other lights accordingly.Sure we would all like to have the latest studio strobes with all the various bells and whistles, but they are incredibly expensive and it just isn’t necessary.The second light is called the fill light..With the judicious use of mirrors and other reflectors, 1 main light can be the only light source for a very complex 5 light set! Think out of the box a little and your digital photography light can be professional quality and save money too! But one portrait lighting concept that many beginners/amateurs don’t realize - an illumination source doesn’t necessarily need to be an actual studio strobe.Position your main light to be at about 45% between the model and the camera position.Put your wallet away and learn the digital photography light basics with whatever is available.
This will create a shadow on one side of the face... This is the most basic set-up and should be the first one you learn. The intensity is where your creative vision takes over..The first light in a 3 light set-up is called the main or key.The main could be the sun, it could be one of those mechanic’s work lights (the ones you see hanging from a hook under the hood of your car), you could even carbon filter manufacturers use your car headlights or a simple flashlight. But, it doesn’t have to be a studio strobe. Here’s what I mean.If the light is stationary - like the sun - obviously you would move the model into position rather than moving the light.Position it either behind and above the camera position or opposite to the main light. This is the one that you establish first.Here are the basics. Then position it to be about 45% higher than the subject. Or even an actual light for that matter.Most studio photographers like to use a 3 strobe set-up for the vast majority of their portraits. It can be a studio strobe, an on camera flash, a mirror or other type reflector etc
The third light is the separation light and is put behind the subject. You will take your meter reading from this light and adjust all your other lights accordingly.Sure we would all like to have the latest studio strobes with all the various bells and whistles, but they are incredibly expensive and it just isn’t necessary.The second light is called the fill light..With the judicious use of mirrors and other reflectors, 1 main light can be the only light source for a very complex 5 light set! Think out of the box a little and your digital photography light can be professional quality and save money too! But one portrait lighting concept that many beginners/amateurs don’t realize - an illumination source doesn’t necessarily need to be an actual studio strobe.Position your main light to be at about 45% between the model and the camera position.Put your wallet away and learn the digital photography light basics with whatever is available.
This will create a shadow on one side of the face... This is the most basic set-up and should be the first one you learn. The intensity is where your creative vision takes over..The first light in a 3 light set-up is called the main or key.The main could be the sun, it could be one of those mechanic’s work lights (the ones you see hanging from a hook under the hood of your car), you could even carbon filter manufacturers use your car headlights or a simple flashlight. But, it doesn’t have to be a studio strobe. Here’s what I mean.If the light is stationary - like the sun - obviously you would move the model into position rather than moving the light.Position it either behind and above the camera position or opposite to the main light. This is the one that you establish first.Here are the basics. Then position it to be about 45% higher than the subject. Or even an actual light for that matter.Most studio photographers like to use a 3 strobe set-up for the vast majority of their portraits. It can be a studio strobe, an on camera flash, a mirror or other type reflector etc
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